1-Point Hanger – Approach 3 (Carabiner) – Like Approach 2, but using a carabiner

Using a carabiner instead of only rope will reduce the friction damage to your rope. It is less traditional, but more and more riggers are using them.

NEVER USE AN UNRATED CARABINER. These are intended to carry light to medium loads for camping or other utility applications. They are NOT designed to safely hold the weight of a human. Use only carabiners designed for climbing.

Use only carabiners designed for climbing.

They will have symbols on the side that looks something like this. If a carabiner does not have rating information like this, do not use it for suspension.

They will have symbols on the side that looks something like this.

If a carabiner does not have rating information like this, do not use it for suspension.

This means that this carabiner is rated to support: ① 24 kN if loaded the long way with the gate closed ② 8 kN if loaded the short way ③ 8 kN if loaded the long way with the gate *open* 1 kN is approximately 224 lbs/100 kg on planet earth (with our force of gravity), so 24 kN means 24 people that each weigh ~ 224 lbs/100 kg)

This means that this carabiner is rated to support:

① 24 kN if loaded the long way with the gate closed

② 8 kN if loaded the short way

③ 8 kN if loaded the long way with the gate *open*

1 kN is approximately 224 lbs/100 kg on planet earth (with our force of gravity). So "24 kN" means 24 people that each weigh ~ 224 lbs/100 kg.

There are several approaches.

In-line Half Hitch Lock Off

In this approach, the upline does not run through the carabiner before heading to the overhead hard point for the first time.

Start the same way as with the 1-Point Rope Only Approach 2, above.

Orient the carabiner so that the back is on the same side as the tail of your upline and the gate is pointing toward the secondary bight.

Hook the carabiner through the primary bight …

…then through the secondary bight…

…like this.

Close the carabiner. If it has a lock, consider engaging that lock for extra security.

Before we run the tail to the hard point, we need to lock off all the strands of the hanger.

Flip your hand over and grip the tail. Still holding the tail, turn your hand over…

…this forms a loop.

I am right-handed, so I did this move with my right hand and twisted my hand to the right when turning it over.

Note that the tail is laying on the side of the loop that is facing the carabiner.

Placed that loop over top of the carabiner…

…and then down around all the connecting lines.

Pull the loop tight.

This line is now ready to be run up to the hard point…

…then back down through the carabiner to complete that part of the lift system.

See the Other Angles section below to see from the other side.

Upline through the carabiner

In these approaches, the upline run through the carabiner first before heading to the overhead hard point for the first time.

Start the same way as with Approach 2.

You can run the carabiner either direction, but in this example I will start with the bight.

Add the carabiner. First click the around the primary bight …

…then through the secondary bight…

…like this…

…then around the upline…

…

Orient the carabiner so that it is aligned with the upline

Now that you know the goal, there is a faster way to get the ropes in place: Create your secondary bight.

Run it under the strap.

Bring all the lines together.

Run the carabiner through that path. That will achieve the same thing.

We now need to lock all these lines together before running line up to the hard point. There are two primary ways to do so:

Lock off 1 – The Half Hitch method

If you ran the upline through your carabiner, reverse tension and run the tail back down.

Then let go of the tail, flip your hand over, and grip the tail again.

Still holding the tail, turn your hand over. This forms a loop.

I am right-handed, so I did this move with my right hand and twisted my hand to the right when turning it over.

Placed that loop over top of the carabiner…

…and then down around all the connecting lines.

Pull the loop tight.

This version of the tail flows naturally down instead of upward, but no worries…

Simply route so it moves upward again. This line is now ready to be run up to the hard point…

…then back down through the carabiner to complete that part of the lift system.

Lock off 2 – The Overhand Knot method

This version requires a tail pull and so takes a little longer than the Half Hitch method, but the tail naturally flows upwards, so it has an aesthetic appeal.