Imbricated Outfit Toolkit

Normally, if you wanted a line around the upper chest you would place the line where you want it, then…

Frame - The Issue (1)

…run the tail through the bight to create a Lark’s Head…

Frame - The Issue (2)

…then lock if off with a Half Hitch

Frame - The Issue (3)

The problem with this is that you need to fully release the tail in order to untie this wrap, and if I go on to use this tail to create the rest of my tie, I would have to untie all of that to release this tail.

Frame - The Issue (4)

Complete the single wrap technique above.

Add a second wrap.

Frame - Double Wrap (2)

Temporarily removed the bight from the Half Hitch.

Frame - Double Wrap (3)

Run that bight behind the new wrap…

Frame - Double Wrap (4)

…and then reestablish the Half Hitch.

Frame - Double Wrap (5)

Adjust the tightness and you’re ready to go!

Frame - Double Wrap (6)

Complete the single wrap technique above.

Frame - Double Row - Separated But Close (1)

Add a second wrap, this time placing it’s a little ways away from the first.

Frame - Double Row - Separated But Close (2)

You can lock it has shown in the “Double Wrap Frame” technique above or … you can just bring it up through the secondary bight like this…

Frame - Double Row - Separated But Close (3)

…then begin adding your Cow Hitch pattern.

Frame - Double Row - Separated But Close (4)

Start with the Core Quick-Release Technique above, the you can immediately begin adding shoulder straps by running the tail up toward the shoulder, or…

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (1)

(Optional) … If, as is often the case, you plan to have a second wrap so that you have two layers of scales, you can add that second wrap now…

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (2)

…then run the tail under itself…

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (3)

…then run the tail up toward the shoulder.

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (4)

Either way, now bring the tail over the shoulder to the middle of the top line.

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (5)

Connect to this top wrap however you like. There are many options, but as you will be using Cow Hitch everywhere else, that can be an excellent choice that will complement the overall design.

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (6)

Bring the tail over the opposite shoulder…

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (7)

… to the node at the back.

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (8)

If you are almost out of rope…

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (9)

…just lock off at this point. Then begin creating the first layer of your pattern with a different rope. (See “Adding a New Rope…” below)

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (10)

If you have lots of rope left…

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (11)

…add a Crossing Hitch (with the first tail pull toward the inside of the body)…

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (12)

…to connect to the tail to the strap and begin making the first layer of your pattern!

Frame - w 2pt Shoulder Support (13)

This time bring the line over the shoulder, then straight down.

Frame - w 3pt Shoulder Support (2)

Connect to the top line with a Cow Hitch (or whatever other kind of connection you like). If using a Cow Hitch, do your first tail pull toward the outside of the body.

Frame - w 3pt Shoulder Support (3)

Complete the Cow Hitch.

Frame - w 3pt Shoulder Support (4)

Run the tail up around the back of the neck, then straight down again.

Frame - w 3pt Shoulder Support (5)

Connect to the top line with a second Cow Hitch. (This time doing the first tail pull toward the inside of the body.)

Frame - w 3pt Shoulder Support (6)

Run the tail up and over the shoulder.

Frame - w 3pt Shoulder Support (7)

In the back, bring the tail to the node and secure it with a Crossing Hitch.

Frame - w 3pt Shoulder Support (8)

If you have enough rope, you can begin creating your imbricated pattern right from here.

Frame - w 3pt Shoulder Support (9)

Start with the single-wrap quick release frame technique above.

Frame - Multi-Line (1)

Using Option 2 from “Building Blocks – Simple Strap Nodes”, add additional wraps at whatever spacing you like.

Frame - Multi-Line (2)

(Optional) add shoulder straps (again, use whatever pattern strikes your fancy).

Frame - Multi-Line (3)

Lock off and use up any remaining rope…

Frame - Multi-Line (4)

...

Frame - Multi-Line (5)

…

Frame - Multi-Line (6)

This approach will also allow for a quick release of the imbricated outfit, because you can just untie the tail here…

Frame - Multi-Line (7)

…or here … and the pull this rope (which will be the core around which the Cow Hitches are all tied) out of the Cow Hitches, at which point they will all just fall apart!

Frame - Multi-Line (8)

Technically, you can start this frame with a Lark’s Head like we usually do…

Frame - Multi-Line (9)

…

Frame - Multi-Line (10)

…

Frame - Multi-Line (11)

…as long as you lock off this tail before adding any of the Imbricated patterns, this will still be a Quick-Release!

Frame - Multi-Line (12)

If you need to add a new rope to a frame line, lay the bight on top of the line.

Adding Rope - Prusik (1)

Bring the bight behind the frame line.

Adding Rope - Prusik (2)

Pull the tail through the bight to form a Lark’s Head.

Adding Rope - Prusik (3)

If you want this connection to look more like how a Cow Hitch, turn it into a Prusik Head. To do this, pull the bight out…

Adding Rope - Prusik (4)

…continue wrapping it around the frame line in the same direction it was going…

Adding Rope - Prusik (5)

…

Adding Rope - Prusik (6)

…then run the tail through the bight a second time.

Adding Rope - Prusik (7)

Tighten. This is a Prusik Head.

Adding Rope - Prusik (8)

Here you can see a Cow Hitch next to a Prusik Head. You can see how they rhyme.

Cow Hitch & Prusik

You can use the tail remaining after completing your frame,

Row 1 - Consistency (1)

It usually looks nice to make a drape be the same width and height. So as this drape is 3 fingers down…

Row 1 - Consistency (2)

…I will make it 4 fingers wide as well.

Row 1 - Consistency (3)

Put your first Cow Hitch here. Tying this outfit will go much more quickly and will look much better if you tie your Cow Hitches consistently and using good technique. Let’s go over that to make sure we are all on the same page:

Row 1 - Consistency (4)

Keep your lines in order as they come from the prior knot. Keep them parallel and not twisted. Lay the tail on top of what you are tying it to and clip it in place with one hand.

Row 1 - Consistency (5)

Once my Cow Hitch use complete, this line will be one of the two that are inside of the Cow Hitch (you’ll be able to better see that in a moment) For consistency, I am always going to have these ‘inner’ lines lay on top of the outer lines when doing the draping. Just stick with me for a moment and this will become more clear.

Row 1 - Consistency (6)

Hold the node in place with one hand while you run your finger under the line and hook the tail.

Row 1 - Consistency (7)

Pull the tail through…

Row 1 - Consistency (8)

…

Row 1 - Consistency (9)

This is the first half of the Cow Hitch. Make sure the lines stay in order and don’t twist.

Row 1 - Consistency (10)

Lay the tail on top of itself. Note that the outside line is above the inside line here in this horizontal section.

Row 1 - Consistency (11)

Pull the tail up behind the frame line…

Row 1 - Consistency (13)

I’m going to let go of the knot for a moment to point out something important: Note how the line that was on the outside on the right-hand side of the knot is again on the outside here on the left-hand side of the knot.

Row 1 - Consistency (14)

(I’m grabbing the knot again to keep it stable while I pulled the tail through behind the frame.)

Row 1 - Consistency (15)

…

Row 1 - Consistency (16)

If this is a long tail pull, you can hook the tail with your pinkie like this to keep the tail from flailing around and possibly whipping your partner.

Row 1 - Consistency (17)

Once the tail is fully pulled through…

Row 1 - Consistency (18)

You need the tail to come back down through here.

Row 1 - Consistency (19)

Reach through and grab the tail.

Row 1 - Consistency (20)

Pull the tail through.

Row 1 - Consistency (21)

It can be helpful to grip this point to keep it the loop open while you’re doing the tail pull.

Row 1 - Consistency (22)

Complete the tail pull.

Row 1 - Consistency (23)

Tighten.

Row 1 - Consistency (24)

You can then continue on to make the next Cow Hitch.

Row 1 - Consistency (25)

Before we do that, take a close look at this one. Note how clean it looks.

Row 1 - Consistency (26)

Note how the outside two line coming out of the knot naturally fall behind the inside two lines.

Row 1 - Consistency (27)

This arrangement allows for the tightest Cow Hitch with the greatest grip on the anchor line. Coincidentally it’s also the most attractive.

Row 1 - Consistency (28)

Again, we’re going for consistency, so once the knot is created and dressed, take a moment to double check its placement. In this example, I wanted something 3 fingers wide by…

Row 1 - Consistency (29)

…3 fingers tall.

Row 1 - Consistency (30)

Now repeat that pattern around the rest of this layer.

Row 1 - Consistency (31)

If you make the Cow Hitch the same way every time, eventually you’ll start to be able to do so very quickly and very consistently.

Row 1 - Consistency (32)

You don’t have to make your Cow Hitch is be the same size every time. You could make other artistic choices like this.

Row 1 - Consistency (33)

But for purposes of this example, I’m going to make them the same all the way around…

Row 1 - Consistency (34)

…

Row 1 - Consistency (35)

…

Row 1 - Consistency (36)

…

Row 1 - Consistency (37)

Once you have completed the first row, there are several options for adding more rows!

Row 1 - Consistency (38)

You can keep the drapes regular.

Patterns - Regular

You can make the Cow Hitches closer together for a longer drape.

Patterns - Close Cow Hitches

You can make them grow larger, then smaller.

Patterns - Grow then Shrink

Patterns - Shrink and Grow

Patterns - Shrink and Grow

You can alternate sizes.

Patterns - Alternating

You can make strategic choices.

Patterns - Strategic

You can mix and match.

Patterns - Alternating w Emphasis

Bring the tail down to where you want the next anchor line. This can be spaced farther away from the line above it…

Adding a Row - New Frame Line (1)

…or quite close to it. Let’s place this one here so there will be some overlap with the layer above it.

Adding a Row - New Frame Line (2)

Continue in the direction you were moving (in my case from right to left) and run the tail around your partner and bring it back to the starting point.

Adding a Row - New Frame Line (3)

Attach it to itself with … you guessed it … a Cow Hitch! Go over the outgoing line and do the first tail pull on the upper side of the knot, then lay the tail on top of itself…

Adding a Row - New Frame Line (4)

…and complete the Cow Hitch.

Adding a Row - New Frame Line (5)

Now continue moving in the same direction you have been and add the next Cow Hitch.

Adding a Row - New Frame Line (6)

Confirm it is consistent with Row 1. Here I am confirming it is 3 fingers high, and…

Adding a Row - New Frame Line (7)

…3 fingers wide.

Adding a Row - New Frame Line (8)

Continue the pattern to complete the next row.

Adding a Row - New Frame Line (9)

Cow hitches use up rope at different rate for the inside track and outside track. So when you switch rows, this is a great time to switch which strand is inside or outside. This way your tails will be close to the same length at the end. So I am going to grab my strands, then…

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (FT) (1)

…flip my hand so the outside, becomes the inside.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (FT) (2)

It looks very natural to make this switch at this point.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (FT) (3)

Now continue in the direction you were going, but make the next drape longer…

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (FT) (4)

…so you can attach to the bottom of the prior layer.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (FT) (5)

Then continue the pattern from there, matching the drape of the prior Cow Hitch.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (FT) (6)

Like this.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (FT) (7)

Here I am adjusting how much rope I use so that my drape remains at the same level while accounting for my partner’s anatomy.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (FT) (8)

…

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (FT) (9)

… doing this allows me to emphasize -- or de-emphasize -- aspects of my partner.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (FT) (10)

Continue as long as you want…

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (FT) (11)

Change direction, but make the next drape longer…

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (1)

…so you can attach to the bottom of the prior layer.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (2)

Again, I took the opportunity when changing rose to make the inside line…

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (3)

…become the outside line.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (4)

Pay attention to how the bottoms of your drapes align.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (6)

…

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (7)

…

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (8)

If you run out of rope, simply…

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (9)

… add more!

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (10)

I find that using the Lark’s Head technique works well.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (11)

If one and is a little longer than the other, you can write back words along the pattern you have been making…

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (12)

… Lock to get into a prior node to hide it.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (13)

Then continue on…

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (14)

…

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (15)

When you get back to the spine, double check the bottoms of your drapes to make sure they look symmetrical.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (16)

If you are almost out of rope, You can run the line back up to the staring point so that it mirrors the one on the other side. If you want to keep going, do so but I again reverse direction instead of crossing over the spine. You can see that in more detail in the “Making the Garment Reusable” section below.

Adding a Row - Connect to Previous (RT) (17)

If you untie this Half Hitch, the bight end becomes free…

Demo - Rapid Release (Skirt) (1)

…

Demo - Rapid Release (Skirt) (2)

…

Demo - Rapid Release (Skirt) (3)

… This means you can simply pull it out of the Cow Hitches.

Demo - Rapid Release (Skirt) (4)

If you created a Double Wrap frame, you will need to pull out the first wrap first and won’t notice much change, but…

Demo - Rapid Release (Skirt) (5)

…when you start pulling up the second wrap…

Demo - Rapid Release (Skirt) (6)

…you’ll start to see the Cow Hitches fall apart!

Demo - Rapid Release (Skirt) (7)

You can pull the core out of multiple Cow Hitches at the same time, as long as they are in a straight line. (The more slippery your rope, the more you can pull it one time.)

Demo - Rapid Release (Skirt) (8)

Without their core, there is nothing to hold them together.

Demo - Rapid Release (Skirt) (9)

…

Demo - Rapid Release (Skirt) (10)

…

Demo - Rapid Release (Skirt) (11)

Just continue pulling and the whole garment will quickly fall away. ; )

Demo - Rapid Release (Skirt) (12)